11:24 – Barbara left about dawn for Winston. She’s running errands, picking up some more stuff from the old house, having lunch with a friend, and then heading back up here. She should get back mid-afternoon.
I was surprised that there’s not a metal or concrete pipe sticking up out of our septic tank field. I spent some time on the phone this morning, and the consensus among the people I spoke with is that pretty much nobody has such a clean-out port on their septic tanks. They don’t require periodic pumping out, and when they do need it you have to dig up the system to clean/repair it. No one seems concerned about that. Lori, our mail carrier, says she’s lived in the same place since 1993 and their septic tank has never given them a bit of trouble. Paula, our realtor, said the same thing. She recommended putting Rid-X down the toilet periodically. Some people swear by Rid-X and others swear at it, but there doesn’t appear to be much difference in experiences by people who use it and those who don’t. The major issue appears to be what you put into the septic tank. Human waste and toilet paper is all a septic tank intended to process. Apparently, if you put fat, oils, and grease down the sink, you can expect severe problems to occur frequently. So we’re dumping all excess fats in the trash, and even wiping out fry pans with paper towels to minimize the amount of FOGs going into the septic tank.
Until I used a notebook screen, I didn’t realize just how useful my 24″ 1080P monitor is. If I build (or, more likely, buy) a replacement desktop system, I’ll probably check into driving multiple monitors with it. Frankly, I don’t see what use that would be. I work focused on one thing at a time. I do hardly any video editing, or other tasks that benefit from having two displays.
As it turns out, although we have the Sparta zipcode, our new house isn’t actually in Sparta. We’re a couple miles outside the town limits, in an unincorporated community called Glade Valley. According to Wikipedia:
Glade Valley’s Zip Code Tabulation Area (Zip Code 28627) has a population of 1,405 as of the 2000 census. The population is 49.5% male and 50.5% female. About 96.4% of the population is white, 0.7% African-American, 0.5% American Indian, 0.3% Asian, 2.6% Hispanic, and 1.5% of some other race. 0.6% of people are two or more races. There are no native Hawaiians or other Pacific Islanders.
The median household income is $29,679 with 17.8% of the population living below the poverty line.
We still have a ton of work left to do to get things organized, particularly the science kit stuff. Barbara has graciously agreed to let me have my desk upstairs so that I don’t have to run up and down the stairs constantly. We’ll probably put my desk in the master bedroom, which already has Barbara’s desk in it. I need room for a tower PC, two laser printers, and a scanner, and I’ve promised her that I won’t let my desk area become dirty or cluttered. Alternatively, we may convert the large walk-in closet off the foyer into my office. That would the advantage of letting me work without disturbing Barbara. Also, that closet has two full-width doors, which allow it to be closed off and out of sight.
As far as science kit components, we’ve decided to store as many of them as possible in the garage. It’s not heated or cooled, so we’re limited to storing bulk items that aren’t temperature sensitive there. Stuff like cases of goggle, beakers, Petri dishes, and so on. The temperature-sensitive stuff–finished kits, bottled chemicals, etc.–will be stored in the unfinished basement area and the laundry room upstairs. Right now, we’re living on finished goods inventory because I don’t have what we need to build more kits. Either that, or it’s stuff that’s still packed away in boxes and bins. Getting that situation resolved is a high priority.
We’ll also set up in the basement unfinished area to do potentially messy stuff like filling bottles. Non-messy stuff like labeling bottles will take place in the finished den area downstairs, where Barbara can sit and watch TV as she labels bottles or whatever.
I’m reasonably content with our emergency preparations at this point. We have literally a ton of food, although much of is still packed away or in areas where it won’t ultimately reside. We have a reasonable supply of bottled water, and the means to purify more if we need it. We have what we need to stay warm if the power fails. We have basic comms and emergency lighting and the ability to recharge AA and AAA cells via solar. We’re not completely prepared, but where we are is good enough for now.
When we lived on 80 acres, we had our septic tank pumped once in the 5 years we lived there. It probably hadn’t been pumped since the house was built. We had to dig around and find the access port under a couple feet of dirt. Septic pumping companies are used to having to find the access port.
I would never go back to a single monitor system. I’ve debated setting up for 3 monitors instead of my current 2. Being able to write or edit on one full screen application while still being able to read or watch video on the other is invaluable.
Coming soon:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3361706/Police-Sweden-investigate-chilling-notes-posted-letterboxes-country.html
To quote a certain little pointy eared being from Star Wars: “Be afraid, be very afraid”
Yep, I commented some on dual monitors when OFD mentioned it.
It’s not expensive, I’m running dual dell 24″ native HD monitors, on a dell business class machine. I don’t remember if I upgraded the video card, but I would have just ordered it as part of the pc. One is on the DVI port, one on the HDMI port.
It will change the way you work and you may find 2 monitors are not enough!
It’s very convenient to have 2 instances of FFox running, one tabbed with research or ‘fun’ tabs, one with mail, calender, etc. Or to have FF on one, and a document you are assembling on the other. Or a pdf viewer on one, and file explorer on another, or file explorer open on both, as you are moving things around, or a picture viewer on one, and the file viewer on the other…..
Every office I go into has duals on every desk. It’s totally worth doing.
nick
Hah, take that sceptical non-prepping folks–
nick
“One is on the DVI port, one on the HDMI port.”
Looks like the setup I’ll be using here; I’m pretty sure the two monitors will be of value to us for the stuff we do regularly, and if not, I need another monitor anyway for the third desktop; I’ve been swapping one out between two desktops for a while.
Another overcast day with showers and temps in the forties; Princess stayed here overnight after a music/dance gig where she played the fiddle. So we watched several hours of Appalachian old-time folk music stuff starring Alan Lomax. She also just passed with flying colors her exam in Turkish, which she took up for study about a month ago. So now it’s, besides English: French, German, Italian, Spanish, Brazilian Portuguese, Greek, Russian, Mandarian Chinese and Turkish. Took up the fiddle/violin this past summer and plays it now at events, along with her accordion and Celtic harp. Gifted. And behavior has been improving as the mid-twenties about to kick in, lol. What to do after graduation?
I’ll get back to my usual stuff after she heads north again.
Dual Samsungs hung off a Dell tower. One is primarily for server management – remote desktop manager as well as other remote apps. The other is primarily productivity. I find that I do most of my work on the left monitor and drag reference material to the right monitor as needed. 3rd monitor is on the horizon. I really need reference materials available all the time.
I would have already gone dual monitors, but I have two PCs under my desk and I am currently using a KVM switch to go back and forth between the two. I am thinking about
using RDP to connect to the work machine from my home machine.
@Dave, get two monitors,one each, and use synergy to share the mouse and keyboard.
nick
The effectiveness of the septic system depends a lot on how well it was engineered and installed. The leaching field, for example, should have plenty of gravel around the perforated pipes, and fabric to keep the dirt out. Of course it has to be matched to the permeability of the soil. What goes in, and how much, is also key of course. When we added to out house we had to extend the field but we got away with simple perforated pipe, not the large concrete things sometimes required.
Our tank wasn’t buried too deep. When it had to be pumped the dirt would be removed from the access point, which was not some dinky little pipe but a full-sized manhole. The guy would have sections of fat, stiff hose to run from the truck; think of what firetrucks use on the input side. And he had a long-handled device that wasn’t quite a shovel for stirring things around. He avowed that he could judge how well a family ate from what he pumped from the tank, and said we ate well, which we do. We had him in a few times over maybe 15 years, after which new sewers were put in the streets and we switched. In contrast, a neighbor next door has never switched and never been pumped out to my knowledge. You can see where his leaching field is; ours used to be clearly indicated by the thick green grass too. When it starts getting squishy to walk there it is time to get it pumped out, at least.
putting Rid-X down the toilet periodically
Then people use bleach and flush it down the system which promptly kills the necessary bacteria. Advice I have heard is that is if have a septic system don’t use bleach or chlorine products except in minor quantities.
Septic pumping companies are used to having to find the access port
Some flush a small, disposable device down the system which they can track and then have equipment to track the location of the tank. Once they have that they can fairly quickly locate the access opening. Septic tanks are not huge.
a neighbor next door has never switched
That is surprising. Around here once a sewer system is installed you have a finite amount of time, about a year, to connect to the system or be fined heavily. The water utility will generally give you an interest free loan to pay for the connection to the sewer system. They really don’t want septic tanks.
We were told by our building inspector at the time we bought the house that we should get the septic tank/s drained about every five years or so; we’ll get somebody over to at least take a good look this coming spring, assuming the country hasn’t blown up yet into civil war and collapse, or is that collapse and then civil war…?
But we’ve noticed the neighbor here has had a septic system tanker at his house at least twice in the past year….
I just upgraded my 5 year old 24″ Acer regular flat screen monitor to a brand new 27″ Samsung “curved screen” monitor. Costco had them for $199 on their black Friday sale.
Have you stopped building your own PCs?
I was surprised that there’s not a metal or concrete pipe sticking up out of our septic tank field. I spent some time on the phone this morning, and the consensus among the people I spoke with is that pretty much nobody has such a clean-out port on their septic tanks. They don’t require periodic pumping out, and when they do need it you have to dig up the system to clean/repair it. No one seems concerned about that. Lori, our mail carrier, says she’s lived in the same place since 1993 and their septic tank has never given them a bit of trouble.
I have a 2,600 gallon, three stage septic aerobic system here at the office. All three stages have manhole covers. The flow between each stage is gravity fed. The first stage is the main holding tank. The second stage is the liquid separation and air injection stage. I have had to replace the air injection twice now in four years at $695 each including labor. The maintainer gives me a 24 month warranty and the last time was 26 months, he builds the aerator just right.
The third stage is the chlorine injection and pump for the two lawn sprinklers to distribute the “treated” water. The manhole for this stage is blue to signify that there is chlorine gas from tablets inside. I pay a fellow $225/year to come by once per quarter and put new chlorine tablets in per state of Texas law for commercial septic systems. He has to file paperwork each year with the county for all commercial septic systems.
I had the system pumped out two years ago. Probably the first time since it was installed in 2004. The guy took up about 2,000 gallons of solids and charged me $450. He said it was mostly toilet paper.
“Have you stopped building your own PCs?”
I don’t really have the time. It’s a classic business-school make-vs-buy decision.
Barbara has graciously agreed to let me have my desk upstairs so that I don’t have to run up and down the stairs constantly.
I expect that you will be getting one of these soon:
http://www.bruno.com/store/stairlifts-made-in-usa/
Happens to the best of us.
No stairlift for OFD; I’ll crawl up and down on my hands and knees if need be. Meanwhile working slowly on rehabilitative PT as best I can and there has been some improvement. Knees are probably the most attention-grabbing issue but I’m not giving up on them just yet.
I’ve been looking at small shop air compressors for running various power tools, like a nailer, for example; anyone here have any experience/recommendations? Ideally I just want a unit I can plug in when I need it for stuff and not have to worry about big ol’ tanks and heavy-ass units that would kill me getting up and down the attic stairs.
Also looking at multiple-outlet power cords; anyone got anything on those?
Does it have to be pneumatic? I’ve had good luck with battery-powered units (impact wrench, drill, grinder, even line trimmer). They don’t last forever, but I’m not tripping over air lines, either. And the 3 times/year I need that impact wrench, I really need it. 2 spare batteries and I can get both ends of the truck taken care of.
OFD: is there a Harbor Freight near you? They have inexpensive stuff that if fair-to-good quality. http://www.harborfreight.com . They will ship things, don’t know the cost.
But you might consider this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-gal-13-hp-100-psi-oilless-pancake-air-compressor-61615.html
_Land, A Stranded Novel_: A Stranded Novel by Theresa Shaver
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1475199325
Book number one of a four book series. Young adult apocalyptic series in trade paperback format using Amazon POD (Print on Demand).
Pretty cool story, a group of 26 Canadian teenagers and their chaperones get stranded in Disneyland after the USA is EMP’d. One of the teachers dies immediately due to his pacemaker failure. Five of the students decide to go home to the Alberta countryside over land from California. This is their story.
Please note that the author follows the crowd that says that an EMP event in LEO over Kansas fries every computer chip in the USA. From PCs to all cars built since 1990 or so. Many of the experts that I read now do not follow this, most believe that an EMP in the USA will cause most computer chips to lock up and a subsequent power cycle will clear the fault. This would make an integral change in this story.
My rating: 4 out of 5 stars
Amazon rating: 4.3 out of 5 stars (504 reviews)
“OFD: is there a Harbor Freight near you?”
Albany and Watertown, NY, and Auburn, ME, all three at about 150 miles. We got nuthin’ up here; no Harbor Freight, no LDS store, and no Fuddrucker’s; only got a Trader Joe’s down in Burlap this past year and it is JAMMED every time I drive by it.
“Does it have to be pneumatic?”
Not sure; the most immediate project involves nailing down plywood flooring up in the attic; and I don’t wanna be on my knees doing it the old skool method, nail by nail over about 100 square feet. Also looking at various drill press configs for later.
Home Depot and Lowes have a variety.
Not sure; the most immediate project involves nailing down plywood flooring up in the attic; and I don’t wanna be on my knees doing it the old skool method, nail by nail over about 100 square feet.
When I did the attic over my garage, I used screws. Drill hole through plywood with countersink bit at appropriate places, change bit to Phillips driver, drive in screws. Very easy and fast.
“…I used screws.”
Another advantage of using screws to fasten down plywood flooring is the elimination of the eventual squeaks if you use nails. BTW, when the old school carpenter built my new shed 2-years ago he used screws for the siding and the roof deck. He said he has been doing that for years and has never had a call-back for loose siding or roof.
Edit: forgot to add that the screws were self tapping, coated, and came as a continuous ribbon of screws that used a special pneumatic driver (he had an electric version too). The driver had an extension so he could drive screws standing up.
a neighbor next door has never switched
That is surprising. Around here once a sewer system is installed you have a finite amount of time, about a year, to connect to the system or be fined heavily. The water utility will generally give you an interest free loan to pay for the connection to the sewer system. They really don’t want septic tanks.
No water utility here, we are all on wells. I expect that even though they are not hooked up they are still paying the sewer assessment, which pays off the portion of the debt that the town incurred that is passed to the affected home owners. The total assessment per house is a lot less than the cost of replacing a failed system with a new engineered system, and it has been long enough since the development was built that systems were starting to fail. As for that particular neighbor, parsimonious would be one fair description.
Outstanding, guys! Thanks much for those noob carpentry tips; I’ll check out the selection at Lowe’s and will use screws accordingly; This Old House has enough squeaks and creaks already, not counting the paranormal phenomenae…
Most of the people I know who used to be avid PC builders have stopped building their own PCs. PCs have become appliances.
You might also try using drywall screws. They come in various lengths, and you don’t have to pre-drill holes for them (or countersink); just drive them through the plywood and into the joist.
Most of the people I know who used to be avid PC builders have stopped building their own PCs. PCs have become appliances.
I have built four PCs so far this year.
“You might also try using drywall screws. They come in various lengths, and you don’t have to pre-drill holes for them (or countersink); just drive them through the plywood and into the joist.”
Anything that will save on an old fart’s hard old-skool labor is the key here. Thanks much. Probably be on that project after the Holiday Season formerly known as Christmas.
More projects to come…the To-Do List doesn’t seem to get any shorter…
And speaking of the wunnerful Holiday Season, folks down in Ball-more may see some spiffy fireworks and suchlike this week, stay tuned:
http://guerrillamerica.com/2015/12/indicators-battle-tracking-baltimore/
@OFD, I wouldn’t even consider nailing.
I’ve made my living as a carpenter at various times, and screws are the way to go.
Don’t muck about. Get the dewalt battery impact gun, impact rated driver, and a box of coarse drywall screws.
Something like this:http://www.lowes.com/pd_589205-70-DCK240C2_0__?k_clickID=27a21dd6-541a-9d88-826a-000056899b24&store_code=681&productId=50169133&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=%5Bcom.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%4061fe61fe%5D&storeNumber=0681&kpid=50169133&cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-CordlessDrillsAndComboKits-_-50169133%3ADEWALT&CAWELAID=&CAWELAID=320011480002568967
as the kits are almost always a better buy. You might want one with a circular saw too. They are HANDY.
The LiON batteries are strong, light, and last. If not LiON then 18v.
Don’t waste money on ryobi or other second or third tier brands. Don’t buy an underpowered one.
nick
I prefer “deck screws” to “drywall screws”: they are less brittle, and also are now widely available with Torx heads, which are vastly nicer to drive than are Philips heads. (Square drive is also good.)
…what @Nick said. Then what @Norman said. And a companion battery-powered skil-type saw would be good.
I like the deck screws too, but they are an unneeded expense. A small box is $20.
If you snap off the drywall screws, take them back. I bought some for my kitchen underlayment (gold colored) that were supposed to be specifically for the purpose and resistant to breaking. They broke worse than anything I’ve ever used! Took the box back, got black coarse drywall screws, and Robert was my father’s brother…
nick
Great advice from y’all; I LOVE this board!
I have a Sears Craftsman 19.2 volt BD0727 drill/driver already, plus a DeWalt DC608 brad nailer. D’ya think the Craftsman will suffice with drywall or deck screws? I salivated over that DeWalt link via Lowe’s that Mr. nick put up, though. I’m finding that home ownership comes with random but ongoing projects that always seem to need some new tool or other. Building quite a little collection here so far.
“As lawmakers clash over refugees, Syrian immigration quietly tops 100,000 since 2012”
http://www.foxnews.com/us/2015/12/16/as-lawmakers-clash-over-refugees-syrian-immigration-quietly-tops-100000-since/
I am sure that there are no sleepers in this crowd. None, simply none.
Yeah, right. I need more guns and ammo.
BTW, I was catching up on my “Last Man Standing” show last night and noticed that Tim Allen’s character is a prepper. There are cases and cases of beans, rice and emergency food in his basement. Along with an emergency bomb shelter.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Last_Man_Standing_%28U.S._TV_series%29
At Lowe’s, a 5-pound box of torx head deck screws is $30; a 5-pound box of Philips head drywall screws is $22.
Driving screws doesn’t require a huge amount of torque. The feature you want for driving screws is that the drill should stop when the screw is in — that is, when the torque gets too large. That way you don’t have to worry about releasing the trigger at exactly the right moment, like you do with an ordinary old drill. Of course the stopping torque should be adjustable, so that you can adjust it to stop right when the head is sunk, no sooner, no later.
Alright, we’ve covered FLASHLIGHTS; how ’bout deck screws vs. drywall screws; is that extra eight bucks a box worth it?
“I am sure that there are no sleepers in this crowd. None, simply none.”
Yo, that camel done already left the tent, long ago. I feel safe in asserting that we’ve had sleeper hadjis rolling across our worthless southern border at least, for many years now. Some of their cells are undoubtedly well set up here, with zero suspicion attached to their lifestyles and standard-issue Murkan activities, just as we had commies living here for decades as sleeper agents. I say zero suspicion not because I pulled the phrase outta my tookus but because when hadjis were taking flying lessons in Floriduh and elsewhere, it evidently never occurred to anyone that they only wanted to know flying as far as taking off, not landing.
I dunno, maybe our vaunted multiple intel agencies and organizations have somehow managed, miraculously, to be keeping a few individuals and groups under observation, but I bet it’s just the few grains on top of the sand dune. They tell us, of course, that they’ve discovered and stopped any number of plots laid and inductions dangerous but they can’t spell out the details, ya know, national security…
And rest assured they wanna see 100,000 hadjis per MONTH from now on. Whole armies of violent and savage young male barbarians/animals.
Lock and load!
OFD, can’t find that model driver, but craftsman cordless drills USED to be made by Panasonic and were OK. the model number suggests Black and Decker, which is owned by DeWalt. Not the same thing tho…
The key for ease of screw driving is the impact drive. A regular cordless screwgun spins steadily and torque is important. The impact hammers the screw around and around, and they go in with less torque. HUGE difference in practice.
A good screw gun (impact driver) is KEY for DIY home repair. They make OK drills too, with either a snap in chuck or a set of snap in (ball detent) drill bits. but they aren’t good for some drilling. Hence the kit of a drill and a driver…. The small cordless circular saw is very handy.
I’ve got a dewalt set, older, 18v and not LiOn, but I’ve used the heck out of it.
nick
Next pay check/s here, one of the DeWalt kits. I’d also wanna get one of the DeWalt routers at some point. Ima gon hab me some fun!
Princess finally left here at 7:30 after being here 24 hours, and she’s learning bluegrass and Irish fiddle stuff now. We just gotta figure out how she can combine knowing eight or ten foreign languages and half a dozen musical instruments so she can make a zillion bucks and take care of us as we fall into utter decrepitude and useless-eaters. Meanwhile sonny boy, having turned thirty and moved out to Kalifornia with our three grandkids is pulling down nearly a quarter-mil per year and his boss just handed him a $50k stock certificate bonus which shot up to $67k the same day. More dough in one afternoon than I ever made in any year of my useless-eater life.
And does either kid buy any into any of the prepper and SHTF stuff we talk about here? Zero. It’s crazy talk.
Also just saw some kinda disturbing financial nooz which could indicate a worse time ahead than the crummy time we just had in this country since 2008. Market speculators are panicking and bailing out left and right.
One view on how to dispose of the musloid problem:
“How a Sane, Virile Leader or Leaders Would Handle the Musloid Problem
THIS is how the musloid problem should be faced and solved. It isn’t difficult.
1. Formally declare islam a POLITICAL SYSTEM, and in no way a religion or falling under any religious protections whatsoever.
2. Criminalize islam in every form.
3. Formally recognize the islamic caliphate as a political entity. Define as Islamic Suzerainty ANY NATION that tolerates its existence or engages in any diplomatic negotiations or dialogue with any part of the Caliphate as defined above. (Man up, Switzerland.)
4. Declare war on the islamic caliphate and all of its Suzerainties.
5. Nuke Mecca and Medina to glass after generously, mercifully giving a 24 hour evacuation notice.
6. Seize and physically destroy every mosque in the homeland.
7. Arrest, intern and deport every musloid. Cancel the citizenship of those with citizenship. This was done with American citizens who were members of the German American Bund (American Nazi Party) during WWII. And yes, you’re damn right it was the morally correct thing to do. Read up HERE.)
8. Establish a quarantine on all majority islamic nations, shoot down all aircraft attempting to leave the airspace, excepting deportation aircraft returning for the next load of garbage. Intercept and tow back to port of origin all ships and boats attempting to leave any port. Build walls on all land borders with every inch within range of .50 cal sentry guns.
9. Send in the missionaries. Consecrate all formerly islamic lands to Jesus Christ the Sovereign King. Preach the Gospel of Jesus Christ. Offer the Holy Sacrifice of the Mass. Pray the Divine Office. Baptize every human being that asks for it. The rest will take care of itself.
Agree or disagree on any of the above points, but understand that the gist of the solution is the following:
Stop the spread.
Contain them where they are.
Use the only thing they understand – PHYSICAL FORCE AND STRENGTH.
Aggressively proselytize.
Fully acknowledge that even a converted musloid, like a domesticated wild animal, will be dangerous for the rest of his life and can never be fully trusted.”
From Ann Barnhardt earlier; she got herself disinvited to speak down in Boston recently, evidently too fiery for the local Catholic and Jewish hierarchies, which are reliably libtard Dem and have been for decades.
@OFD: The only thing wrong with that solution is that there’s no point to going beyond the second point: containment. The desire to improve things by military force (Afghanistan, Iraq, Libya, now Syria) is what led to the current, wonderful situation.
Close the borders. No trade, no travel, no aid, nothing. Walls and fences as required, to enforce this. Let them do whatever they want within their borders. They won’t be a threat to anyone but themselves.
@OFD – that looks to be exactly the model of Craftsman cordless drill I use. Get a spare battery (the Li batteries won’t fit in the older charger, so if you have the ni-cad battery charger now, you’d need a newer charger). The torque setting is what makes it great for screws. Set it low and ratchet it up until it just drives the screw flush (or just short of flush) before skipping. I’ve screwed down a few floors with mine. It just works. Just swap out the battery as needed. I got one with the grinder, impact wrench, and line trimmer, so I haven’t bought any spares yet. Haven’t needed to. Nice thing is they all use the same battery, so swapping is easy.
Just don’t start working on the truck while the wife is trimming the lawn. She just gets pissed when you’ve drained the last battery and she hasn’t finished the light post yet.
Anything that will save on an old fart’s hard old-skool labor is the key here.
Don’t even think about a powered screw driver other than impact. That makes driving in the screws so much easier. Less breakage.
So, what would your defensive posture be if this woman approached you?
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3363270/Smartly-dressed-MBA-graduate-stabbed-stranger-Toronto-store-unprovoked-attack-ARRESTED-four-days-run.html
Would you even have considered that she could be a deadly threat? Or would you smile and let her into stabbing range?
This is just one of the reasons I have problems with a lot of the self defense ‘conventional wisdom.’ Don’t be there didn’t work. Color code doesn’t work. So much of the historic thinking on self defense assumes this model of a rational actor, and is not appropriate for terror attacks, whether from BLM activists, or muslim scum.
Something to think about.
nick
(And probably different for us vs the israeli citizens, where random knife attacks are common.)
NB- other than skin color, no reason to suppose this one is anything other than crazy. Conflated with muslim scum because of their recent propensity to stab people at random.
@nick,
The female at the link looks foreign, could she be a Hindu or a Buddhist?
@dave, probably, esp considering her name is not western.
added a note to my comment.
nick
Interestingly enough, a couple of towns near Smallville have closed schools today because someone bozo called a girl a slut and threatened to kill her and all her friends and blow up the school. A friend from church inadvertently shared the moron’s Facebook post including a picture of the alleged slut in her underwear.
@OFD – regarding your post on that group that must not be mentioned in any derogatory manner: +10,000
BTW, that list is actually what moslem* law says must be done to the nonbelievers. Most folks do not understand that with a moslem* there is no negotiation, no compassion. And another BTW, even if a nonbeliever “converts” they are always considered suspect.
*As I pointed out some time ago a moslem is not to be confused with a Muslim who is a person “who gives himself to God”, where a moslem (lower case to express my disdain and contempt) means “one who is evil and unjust”. When moslem is pronounced it is, mozlem with a z.
Here is an unusual device I saw at Lowe’s the other day. An outdoor grill that has a cell phone charger built in. Not cheap. They have several other items in their product line.
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=748102-65754-BCA&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=999919860&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
Wow, that thing was very niche, and may have even been a kickstarter project IIRC.
It makes me want to get some old peltier coolers, like from a CPU cooler or one of the car coolers that you plug in to keep your lunch cold and put it in the focus of a big old fresnel lens from a projection tv. Maybe attach it to a big old slab of metal…
I also think the Mosquito Magnet products use one to run the fan while burning propane as an attractant…
nick
1. There’s no need to tote an air compressor around. Site it where you want it to be and leave it there; the better ones have holes in the feet so you can bolt them down. Then you only have to get a hose reel and tote it to your work location. I always used a set up with a female quick disconnect coupler on the line and the male coupler on the reel’s outlet, then attached a short working hose to the reel itself. It might seem counter-intuitive, but it was less of a tangle / stumble hazard that way. For maximum utility, a three way manifold at the output end of the compressor, and if you’re going to be doing any painting you’ll want a filter between the compressor & manifold.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_42530_42530
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200331874_200331874
2. Just a couple of weeks ago I had my septic tank pumped out for the first time in the 20 years I’ve been here. They didn’t use the cleanout, except to estimate where to start probing for the tank itself. Then a bit of shovel work, and they found the access port, about 24″ x 24″. Two workers, less than two hours (including dealing w/ a recalcitrant pump on the truck) and $275 later all was well. I’ve always been careful not to dump food grease into the system. The workers mentioned a recent job where a tank had been clogged by the baby wipes the people had been using in lieu of toilet paper.